Having just read Persuasion by Jane Austen, I’m particularly interested in the details of that era. Today at the library I was able to check out several non-fiction books about her and early 19th century historical details.
However, this post features selections from my own copy of John Peacock’s broad treatise on fashion history.
These illustrations only roughly represent her years. She lived from 1775 to 1817; the pictures are for fashions from 1785 to 1820. Since Miss Austen completed the rough draft of Persuasion in 1817, her stylish characters would’ve worn dresses from the last sketch below.
(Clicking on a picture will enlarge it.)
Also, please note that they are intended to show the progression and details of fashion development. I think it helps to see how styles can sometimes ease from one to another. Other times they change radically.
1785 - 1798
1798 - 1800
1800 - 1811
Regency 1811 - 1820
Sketches are from John Peacock’s book: Costume 1066 – 1966, A Complete Guide to English Costume Design and History (copyrighted 1986). Mr. Peacock was the senior costume designer for BBC Television when the book was printed.
The calligraphy is by Rachel Yallop.
Filed under 1700s, 1800s, Books, Clothing, Dresses (Including Formals), England, Ephemera, Fashion, Femininity, Hairstyles, Hats, History, Jane Austen, Shoes
DK Costume Book by Rowland-Warne
Vintage Hats & Bonnets by Langley
Apparently it’s not a particularly modern practice for fashion designers to make yesterday’s clothing look dated and outmoded.
Even though the time gap (from the 1770s – 1815) shown here spans 45 years, the changes were huge. It’s doubtful that many women would be wearing the same apparel for all those years (despite the superior quality of fabric then as opposed to now), but it is possible that women who wore the 18th century styles when they were young may not have wanted to change with the times and would have looked extremely outdated even to a casual observer.
Albeit that we are discussing clothing, a comment about hair styles comes to mind. I read once that a hairdresser said he could tell within 5 years when a woman graduated from high school by her hair and makeup – no matter her age.
The difference in hair styles between 1770 and 1815 were at least as striking as the change in clothing: from massive powdered wigs to ringlets and close to the head buns.
The DK Costume book by L. Rowland-Warne was one that I bought in 1999 in Windsor. Every Sunday morning vendors were set up under the portico at the front of the Guild Hall – built around 1687 under the direction of Sir Thomas Fitz then Sir Christopher Wren. There were a couple of book sellers and I was able to get this costume book from one and a vintage Penguin Agatha Christie novel from another.
Vintage Hats & Bonnets by Susan Langley was bought on a trip to Massachusetts a few years ago. While Joe attended a class for his job, I drove over to Lowell and had an absolutely marvelous time at a hat exhibit at the American Textile Museum. Well worth the time if you’re ever in the area.
Fashion Museum, Bath
V & A
The V&A was the museum which Mr. Thackeray’s (Sidney Poitier) class went to for their field trip in To Sir, With Love. Remember the girls in their mini-skirts looking at the wide-skirted dresses?
At the Museum of Costume in Bath (in 2007 the name was changed to Fashion Museum) and then at the Fashion exhibit at the Victoria and Albert Museum, we saw the false hips that women wore under their dresses to make their hips so broad.
No, I can’t imagine it either.
Filed under 1700s, 1800s, Antiques/Vintage, Clothing, Dresses (Including Formals), Ephemera, Events & Museums, Fashion, Femininity, Hairstyles, Hats, History, Jane Austen, Jane Austen, Shoes
This tent dress by Jonathan Logan retailed for $21 (about $100 in 2011)and was also available in pink and blue. It’s very sweet and my favorite dress on this page.
Helena Rubenstein’s ad for their Lightworks line of makeup featured pastel tent dresses by Mam’selle, a division of Puritan Fashions.
Cute earrings; also very nice pearl collar on the blue one.
Spring of 1967, my mother made a pale blue lace tent dress for me, very similar to the lavender one in the above photo. Mine had a standup collar and slanted into the neck. We went to Maryland that summer and I wore the dress when we toured around Washington, D.C. If that sounds a bit formal, just remember that this was before people went everywhere in shorts, t-shirts and with their underwear showing.)
At that time, walking up the stairs in the Washington Monument was still allowed, so my brother-in-law and I did. Now I can’t imagine doing that because I’m really not fond of heights and it was very fatiguing. But I was 12 years old and who can tell an adolescent anything. Jim warned me that there would be no changing my mind half-way up because the elevator didn’t stop between the top and the bottom.
No sandals for me then – I was wearing stockings and a really cute pair of blue Mary Janes that matched my dress. About midway, I started carrying my shoes and I remember how ragged the feet of my stockings became. And how hot is was. D.C. is hot in the summer.
Can you imagine being a model and the photographer is requesting all kinds of weird movements and ugly angles? This is a really cute dress with a really odd pose. Looks like the cameraman was saying “Hai Karate!”
All of the above photos are from the May 1967 issue of Seventeen Magazine.
(And of course, Robbie Rivers is the Jr. Petite line from Bobbie Brooks.)
Other 1965 posts:
1965 Hairstyles How To (Part I)
1965 Hats, Shoes, Purses, & Gloves
1965 Junior Fashions
1965 Junior Fashions
Maternity Clothes, 1960 – 1972
1965 – prices, movies, books, music, television, toys, ads & more
Yesterday I mentioned that the “Gidget” television show was filmed in 1965 and these styles are of course from the same time. Remember how Sally Field’s hair was never the same style from one scene to the next?
Here are a couple of styles and the instructions for how to get them from the January 1965 issue of Seventeen magazine.
Filed under 1965, Hairstyles